The 12 Best Curries to Cook at Home

Method:

A curry to cook at home

This accessible achari-inspired lamb borrows the sharp, aromatic character of pickling spices. Wholegrain mustard and crushed fennel seeds give an ordinary supermarket basket a different direction. Allow about 2 1/2–3 hours; the mustard goes in at the end, where its tang remains noticeable.

Ingredients for four

- Lamb shoulder (800 g)
- Onions (2)
- Garlic (4 cloves)
- Ginger (20 g)
- Oil (2 tbsp)
- Tinned tomatoes (200 g)
- Cumin (2 tsp)
- Ground coriander (2 tsp)
- Turmeric (1/2 tsp)
- Sweet paprika (2 tsp)
- Cayenne (1/2 tsp)
- Water (400 ml)
- Salt (1/2 tsp)
- Wholegrain mustard (1 tbsp)
- Fennel seeds (1 tsp)
- Lemon (1/2)

Before you start

Use boneless meat, trim hard fat and cut into 3 cm pieces. Finely chop the onions, grate the ginger and crush the garlic. Set out the measured spices before turning on the hob: once they reach the hot pan, they need your attention.

Crush the fennel seeds with the bottom of a mug and include them with the dry spices.

At the stove

Heat the oil in a heavy casserole. Brown the meat in two batches for 6–8 minutes altogether and lift it out. Soften the onions in the same pan for 12–15 minutes until golden; add a splash of the measured water if they catch. Stir in garlic and ginger for 1 minute, then the dry spices for 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes, breaking them up with a spoon.

Return the lamb and its juices, add the water and 1/2 tsp salt, then bring to a gentle simmer. Cover and cook for 90–120 minutes, stirring every 20 minutes, until a fork slips easily into the meat. Older or larger pieces may need longer. Add hot water in 50 ml splashes if the sauce catches; uncover for the last 10 minutes if it is too thin.

Finish and serve

Stir in the mustard and 1 tbsp lemon juice, simmer for 2 minutes and taste before using more juice. The sauce should be tangy without overwhelming the meat.

Taste for salt and let the curry stand for 5 minutes. Serve with plain rice or warm flatbread, bought ready-made if that makes dinner easier. Put a little plain yogurt on the table for anyone who wants to soften the heat; it is an optional accompaniment.

Everyday substitutions

This is a practical approximation of achari flavours, not a replacement identical to an Indian pickle spice blend. No mustard oil, nigella or fenugreek is required. If fennel seeds are unavailable, omit them; the sauce will lose its gentle aniseed note. Dijon mustard also works, but begin with 2 tsp because its heat can be sharper.

Use sunflower, rapeseed or mild olive oil; ghee is optional, in the same quantity. Use pure cayenne or ground chilli, not a chilli-con-carne seasoning blend. Start with less if you prefer gentle heat. All spoon measures are level; spices are ground unless stated otherwise.