The 12 Best Curries to Cook at Home

Method:

A curry to cook at home

Lamb rogan appears here as a Rogan Josh-inspired home stew, with red paprika, fennel and yogurt. There is no cream or tomato in this version. Allow about 2 1/2–3 hours. The yogurt gives a gentle tang, while slow cooking lets the lamb become the centre of the sauce.

Ingredients for four

- Lamb shoulder (800 g)
- Onions (2)
- Garlic (4 cloves)
- Ginger (20 g)
- Oil (2 tbsp)
- Plain yogurt (150 g)
- Cumin (2 tsp)
- Ground coriander (2 tsp)
- Sweet paprika (3 tsp)
- Cayenne (1/2 tsp)
- Fennel seeds (1 tsp)
- Cinnamon (1/2 tsp)
- Water (400 ml)
- Salt (1/2 tsp)

Before you start

Use boneless meat, trim hard fat and cut into 3 cm pieces. Finely chop the onions, grate the ginger and crush the garlic. Set out the measured spices before turning on the hob: once they reach the hot pan, they need your attention.

Crush the fennel seeds. Use full-fat plain yogurt and take it out of the fridge while preparing the onions.

At the stove

Heat the oil in a casserole and brown the lamb in two batches for 6–8 minutes altogether; lift it out. Cook the onions for 12–15 minutes until golden. Add garlic and ginger for 1 minute, then all the dry spices for 30 seconds. Add 100 ml of the measured water and remove the pan from the heat. Whisk the yogurt smooth, stir a spoonful of warm pan liquid into it, then stir it gradually into the casserole. Return the lamb with its juices and add the remaining 300 ml water and the salt.

Bring back to a very gentle simmer, cover and cook for 90–120 minutes until fork-tender, stirring every 20 minutes. Do not boil hard. Add hot water in 50 ml splashes if needed; uncover for the last 10 minutes if the sauce needs thickening.

Finish and serve

Taste for salt and let the curry stand for 5 minutes. Serve with plain rice or warm flatbread, bought ready-made if that makes dinner easier. Put a little plain yogurt on the table for anyone who wants to soften the heat; it is an optional accompaniment.

Everyday substitutions

Paprika and cayenne stand in for Kashmiri chilli; they do not reproduce every traditional aroma. Crushed fennel seeds from the baking or spice aisle work well; omit them if unavailable, accepting a less fragrant result. Full-fat Greek yogurt can replace ordinary yogurt; loosen it with 2 tbsp of the measured water.

Use sunflower, rapeseed or mild olive oil; ghee is optional, in the same quantity. Use pure cayenne or ground chilli, not a chilli-con-carne seasoning blend. Start with less if you prefer gentle heat. All spoon measures are level; spices are ground unless stated otherwise.