Brodi, minestre e zuppe

Method:

At the table

This tomato and herb broth brings the flavours of Pantelleria to the table. It serves four and makes generous use of a grouper head: a humble starting point for a fragrant bowl. Allow 15 minutes to prepare, about 45 minutes at the stove and a further hour of resting.

Stories around the pot

Pantelleria gives this broth its local home, but its appeal is easy to understand anywhere: a fish head becomes the beginning of a meal rather than something to overlook. Watch how little is needed around it. Tomato gives colour, the herbs bring perfume, and the cook’s most useful contribution is attention. It is the kind of economy that feels generous when the bowls reach the table.

Before you start

Have the fishmonger clean and cut the head into manageable pieces. Pass the ripe tomatoes through a sieve. Wash the basil and parsley and peel the garlic; these will go in towards the end, keeping their fragrance fresh.

At the stove

Put the tomato purée and olive oil in a large pot with 2.5 litres of water, a little salt and a pinch of chilli. Bring to the boil, add the prepared head and simmer for about 30 minutes. Pound the basil, garlic and parsley together, stir them into the broth and cook for another 5 minutes.

Finish and serve

Turn off the heat and leave to rest for about 1 hour. Strain through a fine sieve and use the broth to make a soup. If you like, pick the flesh from the head and add it back, checking carefully for bones.