Brodi, minestre e zuppe

Method:

At the table

A pot of hen broth is a patient sort of cooking, with a useful second meal built in. This recipe serves six to eight: the strained broth becomes a soup, while the tender meat can be served separately. Allow 20 minutes to prepare and about 2 hours 50 minutes for heating and cooking.

Stories around the pot

The Italian proverb ‘gallina vecchia fa buon brodo’ celebrates the good broth made from an old hen. It has also become a little compliment to experience: newer is not always better. There is an affectionate practicality in bringing that saying back to the stove. While the pot quietly simmers, you have time to set the table, and the hen provides both the first course and the next.

Before you start

Use a cleaned, jointed hen. Peel the potato and onion, prepare the carrot and celery, and wash the tomatoes, leaving their skins on. Stud the onion with the single clove. Have the parsley, bay leaf and a few peppercorns ready beside the stove.

At the stove

Place the hen in a large pot with 3.5 litres of cold water and a little salt. Bring slowly to the boil and skim off the foam. Add the onion, carrot, celery, potato, tomatoes, parsley, bay and peppercorns. Partly cover and simmer gently for 2 hours 30 minutes, until the hen is tender; avoid a vigorous rolling boil.

Finish and serve

Lift the hen into another pan, moisten it with a little strained broth and keep it hot to serve as a second course. Pass the remaining liquid through a fine sieve. Taste before adding more salt, and use this clear, fragrant broth for your chosen soup or small pasta.