Brodi, minestre e zuppe

Method:

At the table

This is a substantial bean soup, with fresh tagliatelle, cauliflower and strips of pork rind. The rind gives the broth body, so this particular version is a meat dish. It serves four; allow an overnight soak, about 30 minutes of preparation and 1 hour 40 minutes of cooking, with extra time if the beans need it.

Stories around the pot

Many beans now at home in Italian cooking arrived from the Americas during the sixteenth century. Their journey is a useful reminder that tradition can grow from an unfamiliar ingredient. This pot brings the story back to ordinary appetites: dried beans in the cupboard, a little pork rind, vegetables and pasta. Nothing needs to look grand; the reward comes when a spoonful tastes fuller than the modest list suggests.

Before you start

Soak the beans overnight, then drain and rinse. Use cleaned pork rind: remove any remaining bristles by singeing and scraping, wash it, blanch in boiling water, drain and cut into strips. Divide the cauliflower into small florets. Slice the onion and celery heart, keeping its leaves.

At the stove

Put the beans, onion, celery and rind into a large pot and cover generously with fresh water. Add the tomato paste if using. Bring to the boil, then simmer for about 1 hour 30 minutes, adding the cauliflower halfway through. Keep everything covered with liquid, topping up with hot water when needed. The beans must be tender before the pasta goes in; old beans may need longer.

Finish and serve

Season with salt and a little chilli, add the fresh tagliatelle and cook until tender, stirring gently so they do not stick. Add a little hot water if the soup becomes too thick. Finish each bowl with olive oil and serve immediately: fresh pasta keeps absorbing broth while everyone talks at the table.