Le Zucchine

Method:

Grey mullet in scabeccio with tomato and capers

Grey mullet in scabeccio is a simple but very flavourful Sardinian dish. The fish is fried first, then covered with a warm tomato sauce made with vinegar, garlic, capers and bay leaves. The important part is the resting time: this dish should not be eaten immediately, because the fish needs time to absorb the sauce.

You can also prepare it with sea bream or sea bass if you want a more delicate result. Grey mullet remains the most rustic and traditional choice, with a stronger sea flavour and a firmer texture.

Prepare and fry the fish

Clean the fish well, removing the innards and scales. Rinse it quickly under cold water and dry it very carefully. This step matters because the fish should be dry before it is dusted with flour.

If you are using grey mullet, cut it into fairly large pieces. If you are using sea bream or sea bass, you can leave the fish whole if it is small, or cut it into large pieces. Thick fillets also work well, but they should not be too thin, otherwise they may break during frying or while resting in the sauce.

Season the fish lightly with salt, dust it with flour and shake off the excess.

Heat plenty of oil in a frying pan and fry the fish until golden on the outside. It should be cooked but not dry, because it will continue to take on flavour in the sauce. Drain the fried fish on kitchen paper, then arrange it in a shallow casserole or a deep serving dish large enough to hold the sauce.

Prepare the tomato and caper sauce

In a clean pan, warm a few tablespoons of olive oil with the crushed garlic cloves, the bay leaves and, if you like, a little chilli.

When the garlic begins to smell fragrant, add the well-rinsed capers. Let them flavour the oil for about a minute, then add the tomato passata.

Cook the sauce for about 10-15 minutes, until the tomato has reduced slightly. The sauce should remain soft and generous, not too dry, because it has to cover and dress the fish.

Add the white wine vinegar and let the sauce boil for a few more minutes. The vinegar should lose its sharpest edge, but it should still be present: it is what gives scabeccio its characteristic flavour.

Taste and adjust with salt and black pepper. Be careful with the salt, because the capers already bring savouriness.

Dress the fish and let it rest

Pour the hot sauce over the fried fish, making sure it is well covered. Distribute the garlic, capers and bay leaves over the top.

Do not stir strongly, especially if you are using sea bream or sea bass, because their flesh is more delicate and can break. It is better to move the casserole gently so the sauce slips between the pieces of fish without damaging them.

Cover and let the dish rest for at least 3-4 hours before serving. This time is essential: the fish absorbs the tomato, vinegar, garlic and capers, and the flavour becomes deeper and more rounded.

With grey mullet, you can even prepare the dish the day before; it becomes even better. With sea bream or sea bass, a few hours of resting are usually enough, so the flesh stays delicate and is not dominated by the vinegar.

Serving

Serve at room temperature with a drizzle of good olive oil and some chopped fresh parsley. It is excellent with crusty bread, boiled potatoes, grilled vegetables or a simple salad.