Le Zucchine

Method:

Sizzigorrus cun bagna

Sizzigorrus are Sardinian snails, and cun bagna means that they are cooked with sauce. This is a rustic, patient dish: before the cooking even begins, the snails must be properly cleaned and purged.

Purging the snails

The first and most important step is to let the snails spurgare, meaning that they expel the earth, grass, bitter leaves, and impurities they may still have inside. Traditionally, the live snails are placed in a net bag or a basket with good air circulation, then hung in a cool, shaded place without food for a couple of weeks. This sounds long, but it is essential. If the snails are not purged, the final flavour can be muddy or bitter. The old Sardinian way is patient: you do not rush the snails.

Washing and blanching

After the purging period, wash the snails very carefully in several changes of cold water. Rub them gently with your hands and change the water until it runs clean. Discard any broken, empty, or suspicious shells. Put the snails in a pot, cover them with cold water, and bring slowly to the boil. Starting from cold water helps the snails come out slightly from their shells, which makes them easier to eat later. Add a little salt and simmer for about 20-30 minutes, then drain well.

Cutting the shell tips

Using strong kitchen scissors or a small knife, cut or break off the very tip at the end of each shell. You only need to remove the little closed point at the back. This opening allows the tomato sauce to enter the shell during cooking, and it also makes the snails easier to suck out when eating. It takes time, but it makes a big difference.

Tomato and chilli sauce

In a wide pan or terracotta casserole, heat a generous amount of extra virgin olive oil. Add chopped garlic and let it fry gently until fragrant, without letting it burn. Add fresh chilli pepper or dried chilli flakes, depending on how spicy you like the dish. Then add the tomato passata or crushed tomatoes, season with salt, and add a little chopped parsley. Let the sauce cook for about 15-20 minutes, until it begins to thicken and the oil starts to come to the surface.

Cooking the snails in the sauce

Add the boiled snails to the tomato sauce and mix well. Cook gently for another 30-40 minutes, keeping the heat low and stirring from time to time. If the sauce becomes too thick, add a small splash of water. During this slow cooking, the sauce enters the shells through the cut tips, and the snails absorb the flavour of the tomato, garlic, olive oil, and chilli.

Resting and serving

When the sauce is thick and rich, turn off the heat and let the dish rest for at least 20-30 minutes before serving. Sizzigorrus are better when they have had time to sit: the flavour settles and the sauce becomes deeper. Serve warm with toasted crusty bread. The bread is essential, because the spicy tomato sauce is one of the best parts of the dish.