Le Zucchine

Method:

Spaghetti aglio, olio e peperoncino

This is one of the great last-minute recipes of the Italian kitchen: the pasta you make when there is almost nothing in the house, when friends arrive late, when you come back hungry, or when you simply want something hot, fragrant and comforting without making a proper sauce.

It is especially associated with central and southern Italy, and above all with the very practical, generous spirit of Neapolitan and southern home cooking: a few ingredients, no waste, and maximum flavour. It is famous because it is democratic food. Everyone can make it, everyone has the ingredients, but it still requires attention. The dish looks simple, but the difference between a beautiful plate and a greasy, bitter one is all in the timing.

The garlic trick

Here the garlic is used to perfume the oil, but it is not eaten. This is important. Put the garlic into the oil, let it fry gently until it becomes golden and aromatic, and then remove it from the pan. In this way the pasta keeps the classic flavour of aglio e olio, but you do not find pieces of garlic in the finished dish. It is lighter, more elegant, and much kinder if you are eating it at lunch and still have to speak to people afterwards.

Method

Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil and cook the spaghetti until al dente. Before draining, keep a cup of the pasta cooking water.

While the pasta cooks, pour the extra virgin olive oil into a large pan. Add the garlic cloves, either lightly crushed or sliced into large pieces so they are easy to remove. Add the peperoncino as well. Warm everything gently. Do not rush this stage. The garlic should slowly release its perfume into the oil and become golden, not dark brown. Burnt garlic becomes bitter and will ruin the whole dish.

As soon as the garlic is golden and the oil smells wonderful, remove the garlic from the pan and discard it. The flavour has already done its work.

Transfer the spaghetti directly into the pan with the chilli-scented garlic oil. Add a splash of pasta cooking water and toss well over the heat for a minute or two. The starch in the water helps the oil cling to the pasta, making it glossy and silky rather than oily.

Finish with chopped parsley if you like, and serve immediately. This is not a pasta to leave waiting. It should go from pan to plate while it is still shining.

Optional additions

Anchovies are a beautiful addition. Add 3 or 4 fillets to the warm oil after removing the garlic and let them melt gently. They disappear into the sauce and give a deep savoury flavour without making the pasta taste obviously fishy.

Cherry tomatoes also work very well. Cut a handful in half and add them to the oil for just a few minutes. You do not want to make a tomato sauce; you only want the tomatoes to soften, release a little juice, and bring sweetness and freshness.

Capers, black olives, or toasted breadcrumbs can also be added. Capers make the dish sharper, olives make it more southern and substantial, and breadcrumbs give a lovely rustic crunch.

Serving

Serve immediately, with no cheese. For this dish the beauty is in the oil, the chilli, the perfume of garlic, and the pasta itself.