Le Zucchine

Method:

Spaghetti with clams

Spaghetti with clams is one of those Italian dishes that looks very simple, but actually asks for attention, respect, and very fresh ingredients. In Sardinia, where the sea is always present even when you cannot see it, this dish has a special feeling: it tastes of summer, of lunch near the coast, of an informal table, perhaps with a cold bottle of Vermentino and the smell of freshly chopped parsley.

The clams

The most important thing is the clams. They must be alive, very fresh, and smell of clean sea. They should not have a strong or unpleasant smell. When you buy them, check that they are closed. If some are open, tap them gently on the worktop: if they close, they are fine; if they stay open, it is better to throw them away. This is a dish where nothing can be hidden. If the clams are not good, the final dish will not be good.

Wine pairing

In Sardinia, this dish pairs beautifully with a Vermentino di Gallura or a good Vermentino di Sardegna. It should be fresh, mineral, and aromatic, able to support the salty flavour of the clams without covering it. A Nuragus or a Torbato can also work very well, but Vermentino remains the most natural pairing.

Purge and clean the clams

Start with the clams, because they are the real stars of the dish. Put them in a large bowl with cold water and coarse salt and leave them to purge for at least 1-2 hours. This helps them release any sand they may contain. If you have time, change the water once during this process.

After purging, rinse them very well under running water. Check them one by one and discard any that are broken or that remain open even after being tapped gently. It is a slightly boring step, but it is essential: with spaghetti alle vongole, cleanliness makes all the difference.

Cook the clams

Take a large frying pan, big enough to toss the spaghetti later. Add a generous drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and the lightly crushed garlic cloves. If you like a little heat, add some chilli too. Warm everything gently: the garlic should perfume the oil, not turn dark.

Add the clams, turn up the heat, and pour in the white wine. If you use a Sardinian Vermentino, even better: it brings a fresh, slightly mineral note that works perfectly with the taste of the sea. Cover with a lid and cook for a few minutes, shaking the pan now and then.

The clams will open quickly. As they open, you can remove them from the pan and keep them aside, so they do not overcook and become rubbery. Discard any clams that remain closed.

Filter the cooking liquid

Filter the clam cooking liquid through a fine sieve, or even better through muslin or a sheet of kitchen paper. This step is very important because a little sand can remain even after purging. The filtered liquid is precious: it is the real sauce for the pasta.

Cook the spaghetti

Meanwhile, cook the spaghetti in plenty of salted boiling water. Be careful with the salt, because the clam liquid is already savoury. Drain the pasta very al dente, at least 2 minutes before the time written on the packet.

Finish the pasta in the pan

Put the clam liquid back in the pan, add the spaghetti, and finish cooking the pasta directly in the sauce, moving it often. If needed, add a little pasta cooking water. In this way, the spaghetti absorb the flavour of the clams, and the starch from the pasta helps create a light, glossy sauce.

Serving

When the pasta is ready, return the clams to the pan, add plenty of freshly chopped parsley, and finish with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Mix gently, just long enough to warm the clams again.

Serve immediately, without cheese. With a dish like this, the flavour should stay clean: sea, garlic, good olive oil, parsley, and white wine. At the table, a cold glass of Vermentino completes the dish perfectly.