Le Zucchine

Method:

A fresh homemade pesto

This is a very simple green pesto in which rocket and basil are used in equal quantities. The basil brings its familiar sweetness and perfume, while the rocket gives the sauce a fresher, slightly peppery character. Pine nuts, Parmesan and good olive oil make it creamy and generous without hiding the flavour of the leaves. There is no need for garlic, lemon or cream: the pleasure of this pasta comes from those five ingredients and from mixing the pesto with the spaghetti while everything is still fresh.

Prepare the leaves and pine nuts

Wash the rocket and basil only if necessary, then dry them extremely well. Water left on the leaves makes the pesto thin and can dull its flavour, so a salad spinner followed by a clean tea towel is useful here. Remove any thick basil stalks, but the tender rocket stalks can stay.

Put the pine nuts in a dry frying pan over low heat and toast them gently for two or three minutes, moving them often. They should smell nutty and take only a little colour. Tip them onto a cold plate immediately and let them cool completely; warm pine nuts would heat the leaves when the pesto is blended. Keep a small spoonful aside for serving.

Make the pesto

Put the rocket, basil and cooled pine nuts in a food processor. Pulse briefly several times rather than running the machine continuously, scraping down the sides when needed. Add the finely grated Parmesan, then pour in the olive oil little by little while pulsing, just until you have a bright green sauce with a little texture.

Taste and add salt carefully, remembering that Parmesan already brings plenty of savoury flavour. If the pesto feels very thick, do not add more oil yet: the starchy pasta water will loosen it beautifully later. Try not to over-blend, because heat from the blades can darken the herbs and soften their fresh aroma.

Cook the spaghetti

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to the boil and cook the spaghetti until al dente. Before draining, reserve a generous cup of the cooking water. Put the pesto in a large serving bowl and stir in two or three tablespoons of the hot pasta water; this makes it glossy and helps it coat every strand without heating it directly.

Drain the spaghetti and add it immediately to the bowl. Toss thoroughly, adding another splash of pasta water whenever needed, until the pesto clings softly to the pasta rather than sitting heavily at the bottom.

Serve

Serve straight away with the reserved pine nuts, a light dusting of Parmesan and, if you like, a small drizzle of olive oil. Do not put the pesto in a hot frying pan: the gentle heat of the spaghetti and its cooking water is enough, and it keeps the rocket and basil green, lively and beautifully fragrant.